i woke up to a great surprise today. A fresh copy of The Surfer’s Journal was in my mailbox, Volume 27.5, the October/November 2018 Issue. In this issue is a feature on Cliff Kapono, an incredible Hawaiian surfer and scientist. One of my photos of him from last winter at Pe’ahi made the cut and was published!
I feel very fortunate to be on this path I’ve chosen with my life. To be able to capture moments like this, right in my backyard.. I see all of the preparation, time, and skill that goes into surfing big waves, so to photograph the culmination of all that hard work is priceless.
To then see one of these images in print — especially in this epic magazine — fuels the fire in me to continue doing what I’m doing. It makes my early mornings and late nights even more worth it, and makes me feel so greatful that this is my passion.
As a kid, I loved flipping through surf magazines just to see all of the cool pictures. The flawless waves, far off locations, and exciting stories drew me in. Now that I’m a bit older, and print mags are dying in favor of social media and the digital era, I get so stoked to flip through something physical and see photos that got me into this in the first place.
Mahalo Cliff for charging and being a great human, and The Surfer’s Journal, for keeping the dream alive. If you aren’t subscribed to their magazine you should be, and check out the feature! Till next time.